This is the companion guide of this YouTube video. For full context watch the video. The goal of the system is to fuel my built turbocharged B18C to the tune of 500 horsepower. By my estimation this fuel system could support a forced induction 4-cylinder engine up to 700hp. This build is for a race car intended for use on private courses. Modifying your fuel system can be dangerous if done improperly.

If you find that your car won’t start, and after you jump start it the car immediately dies when removed from the jump source (jump box or another car), then you probably need a new alternator. Your alternator isn’t providing enough power to run the car and charge the battery. This guide will follow a 2004 Honda Accord V6. The process will be very similar for most cars, especially other Hondas but the bolt sizes and locations will vary.

Last Minute Gifts for Car Guys & Girls for Under $50 It’s two weeks to Christmas and you gave a gear head in your circle that you need to shop for. Car people can be hard to shop for. What do they like? Tools. But what tools? They seem to have so many already… Here’s some less commonly owned tools that they will appreciate that you can order right now and get by Christmas.

If your brakes are squeaking you need new pads. You already knew that of course. But what if your steering wheel shakes during braking? You need new pads and rotors. Your wheel is shaking because your rotors are warped or otherwise worn. That’s what’s happening in this ’99 Prelude so I’m installing new PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors and PowerStop carbon-fiber ceramic pads. To do this job you mostly need basic tools but I recommend a brake pad spreader as well.

Today I’ll be replacing a starter in a 2004 Honda Accord V6 (7th generation 2003–2007). Replacing a starter is largely the same in most cars but I’ll include specific information like bolt sizes and locations for this car. As always, I’ll include affiliate links to the tools I used. The starter is always attached to the transmission so it’s usually pretty easy to find. In our case it is on the right side of the transmission below and to the left of the the battery.

You did it! You made the decision to bring your 90’s Honda into the 21st century with a digital dash from Link or AIM but… how do you mount it? This guide will show you step by step how to modify your factory gauge cluster to accept your shiny new digital dash. I am modifying the cluster from a 1990 CRX Si but the process will be largely the same for most 80’s or 90’s Hondas.

Today is the day! The engine I’ve been building is going in the autocross CRX! I’ll go through the whole project step by step. To read about the engine build itself check out this post. Step 1: Have a friend who has a lift. Step 2 (optional): Paint your ugly block. Step 3… ok I’m not numbering the steps anymore. Take off the wheels, traction control bar, ball joints… Drain the forbidden nectar (gear oil).

This is going be a long one. You and I are going to start-to-finish build a 1.8 liter Honda B-series engine for 500hp. The block we’ll be using is from a B18A1 which is a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder that came in 90–93 non-VTEC Acura Integras. It originally made 130hp. The cylinder head we’ll be using is a PR3 VTEC head that originally was part of a B18C5 which came in a 94–01 Acura Integra Type R.

I tried something new. I wasn’t even going to write about this because it’s such a simple fix but I wanted to try out my new GoPro so I made a video instead! BUT if you came here actually wanting to know how to do this but don’t want to watch a video (I hear ya) then I’ll take care of that too. Get under your car, bring a 17mm socket wrench with you.

Today’s project is installing this 42" LED light bar by Nilight (for off-road use) on my 2001 Honda CR-V. The mounting of the light will be specific to this light bar and this vehicle but the wiring I demonstrate (which will include a switch in the cabin) will apply to pretty much any kind of auxiliary lighting you want to add to any vehicle. The light bar comes with these brackets that are intended to be installed directly to the roof of the vehicle.