I tried something new. I wasn’t even going to write about this because it’s such a simple fix but I wanted to try out my new GoPro so I made a video instead! BUT if you came here actually wanting to know how to do this but don’t want to watch a video (I hear ya) then I’ll take care of that too. Get under your car, bring a 17mm socket wrench with you.

Today’s project is installing this 42" LED light bar by Nilight (for off-road use) on my 2001 Honda CR-V. The mounting of the light will be specific to this light bar and this vehicle but the wiring I demonstrate (which will include a switch in the cabin) will apply to pretty much any kind of auxiliary lighting you want to add to any vehicle. The light bar comes with these brackets that are intended to be installed directly to the roof of the vehicle.

In this guide I’ll be upgrading a Honda B20B engine (from a JDM CRV) in a 1991 CRX Si to coil-on-plug. This method will be largely the same if you have a D, H or F series Honda engines. In the 90s cars used a mechanical distributor to send high voltage current to the spark plugs in the engine. It was nice and it worked but it can be less precise and is harder to tune, which is important in a turbocharged setup.

So the check engine light came on in your car? Don’t ignore it! This calls for an OBD scanner. You can read the codes yourself with this tool or you can stop by an auto parts store and use theirs (for free in most cases). This car is a 1999 Honda Prelude so the on-board diagnostics port is by the passenger’s feet. In your car it may be near the driver’s feet instead.

This is the third post about my turbo CR-V. The can read about the original build and installing boost and air/fuel gauges. Today I’ll be doing some metal fabrication to add a “dump tube” to the CRV’s turbo wastegate. This is my first project with my new welder. You can read about the welder setup here. This silver thing I’m touching is the wastegate in the CR-V. When I’m in boost and I exceed 10 psi the spring inside compresses and releases hot exhaust gas through this 1.

While rooting out the “clunking” sound my 2004 Accord has been making I noticed a very worn looking transmission mount. We can see it is torn in at least 2 places. These mounts are cheap but very important. So let’s replace it. To access it I’ll need to remove this air intake. Before I unbolt the mount, I’ll need to support the transmission from below by placing this jack with a piece of wood up against the bottom of the transmission.

I’ve wanted to learn to weld for years and I finally pulled the trigger on a MIG welder. I picked the WeldPro MIG155Gsv. I knew I wanted a MIG and I wanted something that could run on ~110v and ~220v. This was only $300 and good reviews. Let’s see what’s in the box. A good sign that you didn’t open the box upside down is when the first thing you see is the paperwork.

Today I’m going to install these AEM gauges in my turbo Honda CR-V so I can monitor air pressure in the turbo system and the air/fuel ratio going into my engine. First, a little unboxing. What do you get from AEM for $360? The air fuel wideband gauge comes with alternate faces so you can match them to your factory gauges. It also includes two wiring harnesses and an o2 sensor (not pictured).

Today I’m going to restore these aluminum wheels. These are OEM 16” x 7.5" Honda S2000 wheels. They’re made in Japan by Enkei. They’re pretty sought after but I got this set for $120 on Craigslist because they are in rough shape and have no tires. The plan: 🔹Sand the failed clear coat 🔹Fill in the curb gouged edges 🔹Prime, paint and clear coat Here are the supplies I’ll be using.

This is not necessarily a “how to” but more of a “how I did it” because with something this custom there isn’t just one way to do it. This was my journey… oh, and links to parts and tools are affiliate links and I may earn a couple bucks if you buy them. If you’ve ever sat in a first generation Honda CR-V you knew you were sitting in a masterpiece.