This is the companion guide of this YouTube video. For full context watch the video. The goal of the system is to fuel my built turbocharged B18C to the tune of 500 horsepower. By my estimation this fuel system could support a forced induction 4-cylinder engine up to 700hp. This build is for a race car intended for use on private courses. Modifying your fuel system can be dangerous if done improperly.

You did it! You made the decision to bring your 90’s Honda into the 21st century with a digital dash from Link or AIM but… how do you mount it? This guide will show you step by step how to modify your factory gauge cluster to accept your shiny new digital dash. I am modifying the cluster from a 1990 CRX Si but the process will be largely the same for most 80’s or 90’s Hondas.

Today is the day! The engine I’ve been building is going in the autocross CRX! I’ll go through the whole project step by step. To read about the engine build itself check out this post. Step 1: Have a friend who has a lift. Step 2 (optional): Paint your ugly block. Step 3… ok I’m not numbering the steps anymore. Take off the wheels, traction control bar, ball joints… Drain the forbidden nectar (gear oil).

This is going be a long one. You and I are going to start-to-finish build a 1.8 liter Honda B-series engine for 500hp. The block we’ll be using is from a B18A1 which is a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder that came in 90–93 non-VTEC Acura Integras. It originally made 130hp. The cylinder head we’ll be using is a PR3 VTEC head that originally was part of a B18C5 which came in a 94–01 Acura Integra Type R.

In this guide I’ll be upgrading a Honda B20B engine (from a JDM CRV) in a 1991 CRX Si to coil-on-plug. This method will be largely the same if you have a D, H or F series Honda engines. In the 90s cars used a mechanical distributor to send high voltage current to the spark plugs in the engine. It was nice and it worked but it can be less precise and is harder to tune, which is important in a turbocharged setup.