This is the companion guide of this YouTube video. For full context watch the video. The goal of the system is to fuel my built turbocharged B18C to the tune of 500 horsepower. By my estimation this fuel system could support a forced induction 4-cylinder engine up to 700hp. This build is for a race car intended for use on private courses. Modifying your fuel system can be dangerous if done improperly.

If you find that your car won’t start, and after you jump start it the car immediately dies when removed from the jump source (jump box or another car), then you probably need a new alternator. Your alternator isn’t providing enough power to run the car and charge the battery. This guide will follow a 2004 Honda Accord V6. The process will be very similar for most cars, especially other Hondas but the bolt sizes and locations will vary.

If your brakes are squeaking you need new pads. You already knew that of course. But what if your steering wheel shakes during braking? You need new pads and rotors. Your wheel is shaking because your rotors are warped or otherwise worn. That’s what’s happening in this ’99 Prelude so I’m installing new PowerStop drilled/slotted rotors and PowerStop carbon-fiber ceramic pads. To do this job you mostly need basic tools but I recommend a brake pad spreader as well.

Today I’ll be replacing a starter in a 2004 Honda Accord V6 (7th generation 2003–2007). Replacing a starter is largely the same in most cars but I’ll include specific information like bolt sizes and locations for this car. As always, I’ll include affiliate links to the tools I used. The starter is always attached to the transmission so it’s usually pretty easy to find. In our case it is on the right side of the transmission below and to the left of the the battery.

You did it! You made the decision to bring your 90’s Honda into the 21st century with a digital dash from Link or AIM but… how do you mount it? This guide will show you step by step how to modify your factory gauge cluster to accept your shiny new digital dash. I am modifying the cluster from a 1990 CRX Si but the process will be largely the same for most 80’s or 90’s Hondas.

Today is the day! The engine I’ve been building is going in the autocross CRX! I’ll go through the whole project step by step. To read about the engine build itself check out this post. Step 1: Have a friend who has a lift. Step 2 (optional): Paint your ugly block. Step 3… ok I’m not numbering the steps anymore. Take off the wheels, traction control bar, ball joints… Drain the forbidden nectar (gear oil).

This is going be a long one. You and I are going to start-to-finish build a 1.8 liter Honda B-series engine for 500hp. The block we’ll be using is from a B18A1 which is a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder that came in 90–93 non-VTEC Acura Integras. It originally made 130hp. The cylinder head we’ll be using is a PR3 VTEC head that originally was part of a B18C5 which came in a 94–01 Acura Integra Type R.

Today’s project is installing this 42" LED light bar by Nilight (for off-road use) on my 2001 Honda CR-V. The mounting of the light will be specific to this light bar and this vehicle but the wiring I demonstrate (which will include a switch in the cabin) will apply to pretty much any kind of auxiliary lighting you want to add to any vehicle. The light bar comes with these brackets that are intended to be installed directly to the roof of the vehicle.

In this guide I’ll be upgrading a Honda B20B engine (from a JDM CRV) in a 1991 CRX Si to coil-on-plug. This method will be largely the same if you have a D, H or F series Honda engines. In the 90s cars used a mechanical distributor to send high voltage current to the spark plugs in the engine. It was nice and it worked but it can be less precise and is harder to tune, which is important in a turbocharged setup.

So the check engine light came on in your car? Don’t ignore it! This calls for an OBD scanner. You can read the codes yourself with this tool or you can stop by an auto parts store and use theirs (for free in most cases). This car is a 1999 Honda Prelude so the on-board diagnostics port is by the passenger’s feet. In your car it may be near the driver’s feet instead.

This is the third post about my turbo CR-V. The can read about the original build and installing boost and air/fuel gauges. Today I’ll be doing some metal fabrication to add a “dump tube” to the CRV’s turbo wastegate. This is my first project with my new welder. You can read about the welder setup here. This silver thing I’m touching is the wastegate in the CR-V. When I’m in boost and I exceed 10 psi the spring inside compresses and releases hot exhaust gas through this 1.

While rooting out the “clunking” sound my 2004 Accord has been making I noticed a very worn looking transmission mount. We can see it is torn in at least 2 places. These mounts are cheap but very important. So let’s replace it. To access it I’ll need to remove this air intake. Before I unbolt the mount, I’ll need to support the transmission from below by placing this jack with a piece of wood up against the bottom of the transmission.

Today I’m going to install these AEM gauges in my turbo Honda CR-V so I can monitor air pressure in the turbo system and the air/fuel ratio going into my engine. First, a little unboxing. What do you get from AEM for $360? The air fuel wideband gauge comes with alternate faces so you can match them to your factory gauges. It also includes two wiring harnesses and an o2 sensor (not pictured).

Today I’m going to restore these aluminum wheels. These are OEM 16” x 7.5" Honda S2000 wheels. They’re made in Japan by Enkei. They’re pretty sought after but I got this set for $120 on Craigslist because they are in rough shape and have no tires. The plan: 🔹Sand the failed clear coat 🔹Fill in the curb gouged edges 🔹Prime, paint and clear coat Here are the supplies I’ll be using.

This is not necessarily a “how to” but more of a “how I did it” because with something this custom there isn’t just one way to do it. This was my journey… oh, and links to parts and tools are affiliate links and I may earn a couple bucks if you buy them. If you’ve ever sat in a first generation Honda CR-V you knew you were sitting in a masterpiece.

2004 Honda Accord outside of a detail shop This is my 2004 Accord. It has been my daily driver for 6 years. It has 285k miles. Everything works and it’s great — except that lately the throttle has been… weird. It starts jerky and doesn’t cruise at a consistent speed even if I am very smooth with my pedal input. I hooked up my OBD reader (on-board diagnostic reader) to see if I had any error codes.

I’m going to show you how to restore the lower plastic trim on this ‘99 Honda Prelude but the process will be the same on most cars. Everyone knows that the Honda Prelude is one of humanity’s finest achievements. In terms of engineering, style and heritage it has few rivals — But sadly the last one rolled off the assembly line in 2001. Those of us who own one today have a moral obligation to maintain it.