This is the companion guide of this YouTube video. For full context watch the video. The goal of the system is to fuel my built turbocharged B18C to the tune of 500 horsepower. By my estimation this fuel system could support a forced induction 4-cylinder engine up to 700hp. This build is for a race car intended for use on private courses. Modifying your fuel system can be dangerous if done improperly.

In this guide I’ll be upgrading a Honda B20B engine (from a JDM CRV) in a 1991 CRX Si to coil-on-plug. This method will be largely the same if you have a D, H or F series Honda engines. In the 90s cars used a mechanical distributor to send high voltage current to the spark plugs in the engine. It was nice and it worked but it can be less precise and is harder to tune, which is important in a turbocharged setup.

This is the third post about my turbo CR-V. The can read about the original build and installing boost and air/fuel gauges. Today I’ll be doing some metal fabrication to add a “dump tube” to the CRV’s turbo wastegate. This is my first project with my new welder. You can read about the welder setup here. This silver thing I’m touching is the wastegate in the CR-V. When I’m in boost and I exceed 10 psi the spring inside compresses and releases hot exhaust gas through this 1.

Today I’m going to install these AEM gauges in my turbo Honda CR-V so I can monitor air pressure in the turbo system and the air/fuel ratio going into my engine. First, a little unboxing. What do you get from AEM for $360? The air fuel wideband gauge comes with alternate faces so you can match them to your factory gauges. It also includes two wiring harnesses and an o2 sensor (not pictured).

This is not necessarily a “how to” but more of a “how I did it” because with something this custom there isn’t just one way to do it. This was my journey… oh, and links to parts and tools are affiliate links and I may earn a couple bucks if you buy them. If you’ve ever sat in a first generation Honda CR-V you knew you were sitting in a masterpiece.